INDIA HAS ALWAYS been perceived as the land of all things exotic – the wondrous Taj Mahal, the Elephant God, the Himalayas, the Pushkar fair, snake charmers and saffron-clad saints on the banks of river Ganges in Benaras. For centuries now the West has been looking at India as a charming, mysterious destination of spirituality, a place where Liz Gilbert (read Julia Roberts) would visit to pray and explore the divinity within.

This image, however, seems to be fast changing now. The country is replete with 20 and 30-something foreign nationals who are here for short-term work opportunities or to stay for a couple of years. You can find them sipping on a cold beer at numerous cafes around the Colaba area of Mumbai, shopping their hearts out in M-Block or South Extension markets in Delhi or attending a high-profile brunch at an exclusive restaurant in Richmond Town in Bangalore.

As per a United Nations Development Programme's 2010 report, after China, India has the largest diaspora in the world, estimated at 25 million. So what brings this new breed of foreigners to India who are now perhaps as Indian at heart as any of the locals?

24-year-old Ian Myles Newborn from Los Angeles, US who is currently staying in Bangalore is no tourist. Newborn works with the Centre for Study of Science, Technology & Policy – a non-profit organisation doing research on issues related to science and technology in human development, economic growth and security. He is currently working on a project called Saving Cities, which focuses on the connectivity of towns and cities in the Bangalore region.  He explains, “I am here for work, at the CSTEP. Following my second degree programme I became interested in working abroad and in the experience of travelling to India.”

For all those who think working in India is the latest fad, Newborn and a host of others will most likely tell you that Indian work permits are not exactly a piece of cake to procure unless one has an OCI (Overseas Citizenship of India) card or a special visa like a research visa. They are much less defined than work permits of other countries and the fact that the Indian immigration structure provides very sketchy requirements for obtaining them, does not help either. Since last November, there is also a basic requirement for foreigners to earn at least $25, 000 a year with very few exceptions – a major concern for hopefuls. Felix Hofmann, the sub-editor for the international page at Hindustan Times in Delhi seconds the dismal state of visa permits.  “The administrative issues are a terrible pain and visas are extremely expensive,” he says. Hofmann is originally from Germany and this is his first job in India after finishing his Bachelor’s in Germany, Finland and Pakistan.

A WORK PERMIT is perhaps only the beginning of the colossal ‘Indian’ adventure for these young guns. Once they are here, among other things, knowledge of the local language is an important requirement. Though it is true that most people in the Indian metros are more comfortable speaking English nowadays, one still needs a working knowledge of Hindi to deal with the day-to-day situations like travel, accommodation, domestic help etc. In fact, Hofmann strongly recommends that if people intend to live in India, a course in Hindi is the foremost thing to do after landing here. “If one only wants to survive in India, then it is perfectly doable without Hindi and just with English. But if one really wants to live here, connect with the locals, and not just with the English-speaking elite, then knowledge of Hindi is inevitable,” he concludes.
Though most expats feel that it is not absolutely necessary to know Hindi, the lack of its knowledge has a more adverse affect on their personal lives than professional. “Not knowing Hindi wasn't really a serious problem, but were I to stay longer in Delhi, I would definitely learn the language. You don't get to really know a culture unless you speak its language. And you don't know when the joke's on you!” quips Johanne Worsaae Petersen, a 30-year-old from Denmark who works as a Development Director for BookScan India, New Delhi.

Another big issue that makes it to the list of woes of resident foreign nationals is that most cities in India do not have a structured accommodation renting procedure. There are no regulations or rate cards for rents and deposits in an area. It is a very messy and haphazard process dominated mostly by local brokers and landlords in each city. Not only is it impossible to know what they are quoting is a genuine price, it is also a task to figure out a suitable area to target in one’s budget, especially if you are here on your own without any help with the employer or a local acquaintance.  While Hofmann found it “extremely difficult” to find a place to stay, Newborn’s first thoughts on being dropped at the front security gate of the back ally of Welligton were that if he “would ever be able to call this foreign place, home.”

However, some people who experience Zane Altenburga’s luck, who, in her own words, “landed at the home of one of the nicest families in the country” and experience, “Indian hospitality to the fullest!” Altenburga, 33, is originally from Latvia. She has been living in Mumbai for the past two and a half months and works as a travel consultant in a small, luxury travel boutique named Elan.  Though she enjoys the comforts of a home and a family that looks after her, adapting to a completely different way of life has thrown its set of challenges. “In the beginning it felt strange because I’m used to doing everything myself and my way. It is all about getting used to their lifestyle, timings and eating pattern. Honestly, dinner at 9 or 10pm is far too late for me, so mostly I have started to just skip it,” she concludes.

34-year old Natascha Chadda, an independent brand consultant for a real estate development company in Delhi and Bangalore, rightly echoes the sentiments of the Western fraternity staying in India when she says, “In terms of the work environment, I think India still leaves a lot to be desired. The concept of an inspirational work place where employers take on the responsibility of personally developing their employees has not reached the level that it has in, for example, Europe. With a few notable exceptions, people don’t invest as much in people, which makes me quite sad. I guess it’s because there are just so many people here that there will always be someone to replace you. I also find, in general, that people tend to be short-term thinkers, which has harmed the country’s infrastructure and overall development.” She also worries about “The hygiene level, the dirt, the lack of parks and nature in the cities and people’s general disregard for things like lines, rules, authority and politeness.”

Small issues like this can definitely be addressed but there are other more important concerns looming large for female foreign nationals living in India. Petersen explains, “I find that Indians compared to Danes see me less as a person and more as a woman. They have some illusions about my preferences, attitudes, interests, behaviour, etc. Women are, to a large extent, looked upon as fragile and vulnerable, which I fear tend to make them more fragile and vulnerable than they actually are; if at all.” 

Is this the scenario at work as well? Do expats who work for Indian companies feel discriminated on the basis of gender and nationality? Thankfully the answer that emerged was a resounding ‘no’.  Chadda says, “People are extra friendly and understanding when they know you are not from India.” In fact, Newborn has many friends from his office. His office mates join him for movies and after-work outings on most days. The same goes for Hofmann who made most of his friends by of spending time with colleagues after work, attending parties, clubbing, and enjoying cultural events such as theatre plays, concerts and exhibitions.

Expats have adjusted to Indian cuisine pretty nicely as well. They are willing to try out different flavours along with once-dreaded, world-famous zesty Indian street food. Lara Sabrina Hick, a 19-year-old German intern at Puma, Bangalore professes her love for “spicy” Indian food. “I adjusted to the local cuisine without any problems, which seems to repeatedly surprise every Indian!”

All these people have had varied experiences of their stay in India but the common thread that binds them all is their love for this strange and colourful land. Despite their numerous quirky experiences of travelling in the general compartment with locals and being shouted at by the neighbours for playing football at night, when asked if they would recommend India to people, the answer was a unanimous yes. “Travelling all across the country on a train in the sleeper class in June – never ever felt dirtier! But making friends, playing cards and trying new food with the locals was very worth it,” says Hofmann about his favourite experience in India.

Petersen makes no bones about still being in love with the country: “I most certainly enjoy staying in India. I’ve made good friends that are eager to show me their country, help me when needed and have the patience to answer all my many many questions!” Hick also admits, “I just love how India managed to grow into such a fast-developing country and still keep its traditions. Seeing a woman in her beautiful colourful sari holding a shiny blackberry in her hand, or a businessman in suit standing in front of a small temple and praying, just makes me smile.” And finally, Chadda, who came to India after getting married to a man from Mumbai feels, “I think India grows on you slowly but surely and once it grabs you, it’s hard to let go. Every day is sunny and colourful and every day there is something to smile about. My heart rather than my mind is connected to India.”

Well, we must be doing something right!