With the year coming to a close, our favourite time of the year – the holiday season is just around the corner. It is the perfect time to indulge in a much deserved resort vacation. And what’s a resort vacation without resort fashion?

Nautical styles, floral details and Hawaiian prints complete with large floppy hats, huge sunglasses and open-toed sandals in a sun-soaked exotic destination unwittingly come to mind. The beginnings of resort fashion is somewhat of a dichotomy in itself. On one hand, the fashion timeline suggests that resort wear has elitist roots and was originally designed for the chilly, post vacation time of the year when fortunate (read: wealthy) folks got to spend the frosty time of year on colourful tropical islands, private yachts and cruise ships. It was exclusively designed for the snob-club and the crème-la-de-crème of society’s upper class.

On the other hand, it seems that resort fashion always existed among the common people – in hippie bohemian dresses, in drawstring pyjamas, in slack cotton peasant dresses, in loose fuss-free clothing that people donned when they wanted to take a break from dressing up. Designers simply captured an essence of relaxed dressing, then polished and anted the luxury appeal of these very garments to create high-fashion resort wear.

The Evolution of Resort Wear
Whatever the case may be – when you’re lounging about enchanting white beaches and sparkling blue waters with flutes of champagne, you need to look the part. Of course, there are the festivities, brunches, evening gala events and sundown parties that need fabulous clothing. This orchestrated the need for an entire new line of clothing.

Circa 1930 and resort fashion started beeping feverishly on fashion’s radar. Coco Chanel was one of the first designers to delve into nautical references and fashion a sailor blouse in soft jersey as early as 1914. In the early ‘30s, Coco created the iconic yatch pants – flared button front trousers and used nautical motifs and styles like boat necks, braiding and gold buttons in her garments. These designs became the first prototypes of resort fashion and crop up on the catwalk even now. ‘Le pyjama de plage’ of the early ‘30s – essentially silky-smooth, swish beach pyjamas designed by Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli – were worn by none other than the best dressed women with backless sun tops vacationing in far-flung destinations. This started a laid-back, trendy movement towards informal dressing in public.

Back in those days, the freedom of loungewear, walking about without restraint, with a cross-dressing or androgynous look was risqué and had a lot of appeal.

What is resort wear without its melange of prints? Whether they are wild and catty, flowery and feminine or geometrical abstractions, prints are a mainstay in resort collections. Emelio Pucci was the first to bring a gamut of cheerful colours to the rationed continent of Europe right after world war two, a hugely welcome respite from the existing graveness and consequently, gave a new lease of life to the term ‘resort wear’, infusing it with prints that had a life and style of their own.

The fabulous lifestyle of the jet-setting crowd of the ‘50s was parallel to the house of Pucci during that time. His sinuous fabrics and twirling-whirling patterns gave resort wear an identity that inspired many and makes up the very essence of resort collections. In 1959, Lily Pulitzer designed the simple sleeveless sheath with a zip at the back in bright tropical prints, which is a staple item in any self-respecting resort wardrobe. It is cinched in, the silhouette is playful. The prints are interchangeable with the mood of the moment but the feel of the dress remains the same. It is very complete in itself. It could be a sundress or even an evening dress, depending on how you style it.

Resort Wear Arrives in India
Back home, designers like Wendell Rodricks, Narendra Kumar, Malini Ramani, Shivan & Narresh, James Ferreira and Savio Jon are synonymous with resort wear. But resort wear has been a very exclusive domain so far, pioneered by few and extravagantly priced. Recent times have seen a change with designers like Atithi Gupta, Anupama Dayal and Vijay Balhara coming up with brilliant resort collections. In India, resort fashion has dramatically changed from a casual add-on collection between summer and winter to a full-fledged season on its own. It is ideally the go-to fashion for our almost perennial sun-drenched weather.  Designer James Ferreira says, “India is a non-seasonal country thus making resort wear extremely big here. There are a lot of designers who are now moving into the resort space. Resort fashion definitely is the next big thing in India.”

Resort fashion is finally coming of age and Indians are realising how much more there is to it than just kaftans, bikinis and flip-flops. It is beyond beach wear. It can be worn to a red carpet event, to a poolside party, to a Sunday brunch and so on.

India Resort Fashion Week
The upcoming India Resort Fashion Week (IRFW) scheduled between 7 - 11 December 2011 in Goa couldn’t have had better timing. Resort wear has grown from aspirational to commercial in India, thanks to the wearability of the garments. The clean, fluid lines of resort wear bring a refreshing change from body-con dresses that make it difficult to breathe in and over-the-top outfits that look good on the runway but clown-like in reality. It is also the only form of fashion that frees itself from rigid shackles of fashion and allows you to be yourself (or the nearest to what you are). It is unpretentious and relaxed. Connoisseurs of resort wear are women who are very comfortable with their bodies.

Picture this. A luxurious resort, jet-setting fashionistas, pristine white sands and the ocean as a milieu, lots of celebrities dressed in their holiday chicest and beautiful, beachy clothes on a ramp right on the beach. It’s definitely a first in India as fashion meets fun. A project to promote Indian resort fashion the world over, India Resort Fashion Week 2011 will be held at the Grand Hyatt, Goa, showcasing the finest works of the country’s most popular resort wear designers. Nothing could offset resort wear better than to have it showcased in Goa which is internationally infamous for its bohemian spirit and non-stop revelry.

The first ever beach fashion festival in India, India Resort Fashion Festival (IRFF) is an extension of IRFW on the 10th and 11th of December. This style fête will kick-start with the last day of IRFW showcasing the outstanding resort fashion via three exclusive shows and a shopping village Feira da Ladra. Exciting performance arts such as fire dancers, belly dancers, acrobats, and a line-up of international DJ’s and musicians will continue to keep the vibe and tempo of the festival at its peak.

Climatically, India is ideal for resort-wear but in terms of fashion exploration, India is still to fully discover and appreciate the rising importance of cruise or resort wear. Resort wear has metamorphosed from a filler collection to a giant money-spinning industry. IRFW 2011 has been conceptualised to orchestrate this up-and-coming resort wear business. Shivan & Narresh say, “IRFW provides a platform to the resort wear industry and it plays a vital role in focusing on an industry that needs to open up. Swim and resort industries are the most logical fashion seasons for our climate. Goa is also non seasonal and they attract a lot of tourist so it is just about perfect to have something like this in Goa.”

Resort fashion is a delightful paradox in the world of glamour. The most endearing and ironic thing about resort fashion is that since it is inspired by the joy of lazing around, leisurely times and lounging, it is essentially anti-fashion. It is a style that comes naturally when you are having a good time and can't be overtly bothered by frivolous things like fashion. This is what makes resort fashion a contradiction in itself: careful and careless. Designers spend months researching; ideating and translating this I-don’t-really-give-a-damn-about-style into carefully designed garments that have a careless vibe about them. 

IRFW promises to be some ‘serious’ fun. Well, the fun bit is granted, what with the Goan atmosphere of bonhomie, the promise of exuberant collections, fabulous after-parties with the coming together of the fashion fraternity’s most vibrant people. Amidst so much fun, the ‘serious’ part tends to be overlooked. But this fashion week means serious business for all the people involved, as resort wear is highly commercial. Fuss-free and very wearable, resort fashion has a large fan following all over.  It goes beyond just ‘oohs and aahs’ on the catwalk, it goes straight into the wardrobes of connoisseurs.

IRFW has a perceptive balance of established and up-and-coming designers showcasing their talent and creativity at this resort fashion carnival. It is a great platform for veterans who finally have a space devoted exclusively to resort wear and a golden opportunity for young talent, who can showcase their brilliance in a much more relaxed and appropriate ambience. Here’s a lowdown on the designers showcasing their collections:

Manish Malhotra – Mr Bollywood
Success came early to Manish Malhotra at the age of 25 when his fresh take on fashion for the movie Rangeela took the big screen by storm. He gained notoriety in fashion circles as the first designer who asked for movie scripts before designing for a particular sequence. But the film industry obliged by doing just that and that’s how important the role of this famous Indian couturier and beloved designer to the stars is. Malhotra’s clothes speak of grandeur in the subtlest of ways. Resplendent colour combinations such as turquoise and pink, fuse into yards of soft fabric with divine embellishments in some sections of the fabric, and elsewhere, nothing but simple layers. The designer will undoubtedly go down in Indian fashion history for his clothes with an Indian essence but chic global aesthetics.

Narendra Kumar – The Perfect Fit
With contemporary cuts and silhouettes, Narendra Kumar’s garments are all about theatrical luxury and incomparable tailoring. Celebrity designer, faculty member at NIFT, regular contributor to fashion publications, movie stylist – the designer is multi-faceted. His resort collection is made of fabric which is specifically dyed with flowers and herbs collected from temples by slum dwellers. It is the first time Narendra has attempted to work with organic materials. This collection is about social empowerment and it amalgamates with the designer’s style statement.

Shantanu & Nikhil – Kings of Drape
Shantanu & Nikhil are the undisputed masters of drape. The uniqueness of their garments lie in the fact that they hug the body in all the right places. In keeping with their philosophy of sophistication, the brand’s resort wear is a striking mix of experimental fabrics and vivid layering. Their clothes are not for the faint of heart, but for someone who can handle being the centre of attention and has no qualms about it. The same is expected of their resort collection too – bright, bold and modern.

Shivan & Narresh – The Science of Simplicity
India’s first designers to create seamless swimwear, this duo are all about candy colours and strategic cuts. Bold, confident and sophisticated is the best way to describe the swim-wear kings. Perfect lines, an eye for detail and grace are words that could be used to define the brand. After launching in Cannes, the duo shifted their studio to India, and became India’s first mainstream beach-wear. As they specialise in all things resort, it will be exciting to see their collection in a true resort style.

James Ferreira – Poetry in Motion
James Ferreira has highly wearable garments that scream of sensuality without screaming for it. Using eastern crafts of drawstring and origami, James creates original and uncommon silhouettes in natural fabrics. He drapes every garment on the mannequin first to check the drape and the way it falls on the body, even before the first pattern is cut. With an ethos that embraces the neoclassic, clean and modern; James is a rare designer who captures the movement of the drape, and symbolises freedom. He sells primarily from his atelier in Khotachiwadi; an old charming Heritage Bungalow in his home city of Mumbai.  

Gogee Vasant – The Classicist
With a discerning international clientele and over 20 years of experience, Designer Gogee Vassant is now designing into resort wear. It will be interesting to see how her trademark handwork, fun prints, mixing of multi-faceted fabrics and attention to value translate in the resort realm.

Pria Kataria Puri – Wild Child
Pria Kataaria Puri is not known as the queen of prints for nothing. Pria’s collections personify a global traveller. There is a lot of texture play with hand trappings in wool threads along with mirror work, cord work, shells, beads, embroidery etc. Her speciality lies in free-flowing silhouetted garments like ponchos and kaftans. The most arresting thing about Pria’s designs is they flow with the wearer's silhouette and work at enhancing the mystique of the female form.

Babita Malkani – Cutting the Edge
With a fashion career spanning more than two decades, Babita Malkani is a lady who truly is the master of her craft. Synonymous with high-end fashion globally and locally, Babita marries haute couture, plush fabrics with clean cuts and drapes, in a fun, frisky and one-of-a-kind design. Her resort wear collection promises to be an enchanting assortment of delicate hues and fluid textures.

Anupama Dayal – The Contemporary Seamstress
Anupamaa Dayal launched her line in 2004 and has not looked back ever since. She has been experimenting with distinctive printing and needle work techniques. She loves to have fun with vibrant colours and has a knack for working with diaphanous styles.

Tambourine by Divya Mohta – Around the World
Enthused by the art, craft and textile mores from world cultures, Tambourine, a concept based print brand was created by Divya Mohta, an ardent fashionista in 2011. These prints are modish with a worldwide appeal and also can suit everyone, age no bar.

Nitya Bajaj – Creating a Statement
A trendsetter in the fashion industry, Nitya was one of the first designers to launch statement accessories. Each and every piece of her jewellery has a strong sense of individuality. Her pieces are conversational yet timeless.

How to wear resort wear with élan

• White is the black of the resort world and one can never, ever go wrong with wearing white at a resort or a cruise or a jet-setting holiday.
• Shading is a fabulous idea, soft gradients like oranges meshing into pinks look fabulous in tropical settings. Ditch severly tailored clothes and go for free flowing.
• Maxi dresses, gypsy skirts, caftans and palazzo pants are the must-haves of every woman’s resort holiday suitcase.
• For men, relaxed khaki trousers and light linen suits are a fair equivalent. Designer Gogee Vasant says, “The best way to wear resort wear is to feel comfortable in what you wear and with your body. It is much more than just swim wear and extends to cover ups, maxis, kaftans, dresses etc. Pair your resort wear with statement accessories to complete the look.”
• Ladies, this is the only time when baring your midriff is acceptable. Bring out the sheer throws and see-through shirts to go with your pop-colored peek-a-boo bra. Model Binal Trivedi says, “The most important factor while wearing resort wear is to look at one’s body size and pick an outfit suited to it. One can mix and match outfits like a bikini top with denim shorts or a sheer jumpsuit with a bikini. Don’t ever wear something you would be uncomfortable in, you would be constantly fidgeting.”
• Gentlemen, you can button-down your buttoned-up shirts to show off what you’ve been slaving for at the gym.
• Add a bit of originality to your outfit. Whether it is the tribal beads you bought as souvenir on an African holiday, a vintage bag or even an alphabet macaroni necklace, resort fashion allows you to experiment and express yourself.
• Wear huge rimmed sunglasses for instant movie star appeal.
• Balance your look. Pair a loose diaphanous top with fitted pants and wear a snug tee with voluminous trousers.
• Invest in multi-tasking pieces like a flimsy sundress that can serve as a beach cover-up and can be belted and worn with heels for after-swim cocktails. Designer duo, Shivan & Narresh say, “Wearing your swimsuit in more than one way makes for a perfect resort wear trend that is here to stay. So whether it is about wearing your swimsuit with a trouser like a bodysuit, with a jacket and trousers meant for the office, a sarong for a cocktail or simply with a skirt for a night out, it truly brings in the versatility resort wear should be known for.”
• The most important tip, enjoy yourself and be fabulous!